Extreme Jaw-Dropping Big Wave Surfing
July - August 2025 offered up an exceptional privilege to witness not just some of the most progressive contemporary surfing I’ve ever seen, but also just two weeks later, some of the most extreme jaw-dropping big wave performances in recent memory.
Glorious first light begins a stunning day of surfing at the famous Supertubes, J-Bay.
Power Meets Precision
Leading up to the WSL event at Jeffreys Bay in July, a series of promising low-pressure systems lined up perfectly. The stage was set: a world-class wave, a deep local talent pool and the planet’s best surfers converging at one of the most perfect right-hand point breaks in the world.
How else would you describe it, but Perfection, J-Bay Perfection.
J-Bay Perfection
The promise of a quality swell in such a high-performance location was enough to get me on a plane. I was rewarded with back-to-back pulses, one just before the contest and another that held through the event, culminating in the best conditions on finals day.
Jordy Smith was exceptional at J-Bay.
Jordy Smith Dominating
In the pre-contest sessions, Jordy Smith was in devastatingly top form, dominating 6-8 ft walls with precision and power, stamping himself as a favourite. The level of surfing throughout the two weeks was unreal, each surfer expressing their unique style on what is arguably nature’s ultimate canvas.
Connor’s Flawless Backhand
Connor O’Leary, in particular, delivered a near flawless display of backhand surfing, drawing comparisons to legends like Tom Curren and Occy, as he went on to claim the win.
Connor O’Leary J-Bay.
Connor O’Leary getting beyond vertical in the WSL surf comp at J-Bay 2025.
Eye’s on Teahupo’o
Even during the final days at J-Bay, I noticed signs that the Southern Hemisphere was far from finished. Swell charts were showing promising activity for Teahupo’o Tahiti, the next WSL tour stop.
Etched into memory, one last sunrise illuminating J-Bay before I head off to my next location.
Wild Magic
I prefer to follow the swells not the tour, but when the tour overlaps with epic conditions, that’s when magic happens. Initially, a strong swell was predicted two weeks ahead of the Teahupo’o event, but the wind forecast deteriorated, so I diverted to Bali instead.
Power & Glory: Teahupo’o wave slab at maturity, thick-lipped liquid wall.
Flawless Perfection
Then, out of nowhere, a 10 ft pulse, a social media flash, Matahi Drollet on a glassy wave of perfection. Did I miss the peak, had I blown it? Turns out conditions were only epic for about an hour before the wind turned. Still, sometimes that’s all it takes to set the internet and the surf world on fire.
Perfection untapped, a dream unrealised - surfing metaphors for life.
A Monster Awakens
Shortly after, a more powerful system began appearing on the forecast maps. I was doing my best to coordinate a trip to a remote, rarely surfed location that would light up under this swell, but that proved futile.
Then, as the powers that be would have it, an opportunity to pivot back to the ever-improving forecast for Teahupo’o presented itself.
The magic of Tahiti is everywhere: Isabella Nicols emerges from the vibrant hues of Teahupo’o.
My valued and longstanding relationship with the Drollet family gave me access to the best boat in the channel, Cindy’s Taxi Boat and her little brother Matahi, who I honestly consider one of the best Teahupo’o surfers ever.
Ironically, the only other contender for this title is his older brother Manoa, who would be towing Matahi on this swell.
Daniel Brown finding the paddle limits at Teahupo’o.
The Teahupo’o Divide
As expected, many WSL pros arrived early to prepare but this is where the divide in surfing becomes most visible.
Teahupo’o is the ultimate litmus test. At 10-12 feet, it's barely paddleable. But beyond that, the take-off becomes borderline impossible for most. At that moment, most surfers feel fear, but they shine. This is where only the brave and the very best step up; it’s clear that Tahiti’s locals dominate this arena.
Tahitian Local Pro-Surfer Aelan Vaast. In this frame, she emerges from an absolute beast at Teahupo’o.
Solid Moving to Massive
Once the waves cross the paddle threshold, the best locals seamlessly transition to tow-in. This swell was exactly that: solid in the morning, massive by afternoon. It peaked overnight, evident by the debris scattered across roads the next day before dropping slightly back to tow and then paddleable but still huge conditions.
Matahi Drollet is one of the most gifted and fearless tube riders on the planet, a true master of his craft, he picks the perfect line every time.
Naturally, I’ve seen waves this big before; it’s all part of the job, but I’ve not witnessed so many big waves ridden so very well. A few stood out as almost otherworldly.
Naiki Vaast rode a 20 ft beast that defied belief.
Matahi Drollet followed with a similarly perfect monster.
Koa Rothman survives an aquatic blast.
Koa Rothman and Lucas Chumbo rode absolute bombs with total commitment.
Both Aelan Vaast and Kauli Vaast pulled into set after set.
Fearless Mindset: Jack Robinson just prior to winning the WSL event at Teahupo’o 2025.
Fearless Mindset
Only a handful of WSL competitors dared to take it on, risking their careers for a shot at history. Jack Robinson was one of them, that fearless mindset not only got him through the swell, but helped him clinch the win at the contest.
Local Knowledge | Surf #112
Reading the reef with calm precision
Teahupo’o, Tahiti
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The Standout
The surfer who truly blew my mind! Matahi Drollet.
The number of perfect, death-defying waves he rode with flawless timing and style left even the world’s best surfers speechless. These were not just big waves; they were massive, critical and life-threatening and Matahi made them look effortless.
Matahi’s Master Class moment and many other examples of truly spectacular surfing feature on my website Classic Surf photo gallery, with a selection being offered as photographic prints.
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240 page hardcover surf and travel photography book by Ted Grambeau.
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