NAZARE’S BIG WAVE DRAMA: A Thrilling Encounter
FROM AFRICA TO THE MONSTER WAVES OF NAZARE
Only five days after returning to Australia from experiencing perfect points of North Africa, another intense low-pressure system appeared on the charts. This one was different. It wasn’t just massive - it came with offshore winds, setting up some of the best big-wave conditions of the winter. Despite having just travelled from Europe and North Africa a return journey seemed to be the most logical thing to do. This could be the swell of the winter for the Atlantic and I didn’t want to risk missing it.
“Nazaré, Portugal, was the obvious call”
With its sheer cliffs offering incredible vantage points, and the world’s top big-wave surfers converging, I knew I had to be there. After a lightning-fast turnaround at home, I was back on a plane to Europe.
For me, it’s never just about the literal surf action. I’m always searching for that image—the one that makes your jaw drop. It could be the raw power of the ocean, a perfect moment of harmony and chaos, or an entirely new perspective on a wave we think we’ve seen before.
Sea of foam impedes the jet ski’s ability to escape a looming threat.
A Rescue Gone Wrong
One of the most spectacular moments of the season wasn’t a surfer or a wave, it was a wipe-out. Brazilian big-wave surfer Will Santana took off on one of the largest waves of the day, only to be swallowed by 60 feet of detonating whitewater. Forced to bail, he disappeared beneath the surface.
Foam Monster
Enter Daniel Rangel, one of Nazaré’s fearless rescue team members—arguably the most dangerous job in the sport. After an agonisingly long hold-down, Will finally surfaced, lost in a sea of whitewater. Daniel moved in fast, positioning his ski to get Will on the sled. But then, disaster struck.
A point of no return.
Disaster of Massive Proportion's
As the jet ski tried to escape the danger zone it lost propulsion due to the amount of foam, an enormous wall of whitewater loomed. In a split-second decision, Daniel bailed, trying to escape, while Will, still on the sled, was drawn up the face of a monstrous wave.
“The wave devoured both of them in the most violent manner.”
Engulfed in a sea of darkness.
“One of the Most Spectacular Incidents I have ever witnessed in Four Decades of Shooting Surf”
MIRACLES DO HAPPEN
Miraculously, neither of them made contact with the ski in what was one of the most intense wipeouts I’ve ever witnessed. Within seconds, a dozen rescue skis swarmed in, retrieving them safely. The jet ski, however, was carried by Nazaré’s relentless rip, washing onto the rocks before being sucked back out for two full laps of the lineup.
Recovery teams enter the impact zone.
“Thankfully, both surfers were not injured — a combination of their ocean skills, a bit of luck and incredible support from their fellow surfers.”
All these extreme athletes are well versed in the risks they face and the dangers that confront them and train and coordinate to minimise all possible outcomes. But in the end the nature of this activity is high risk and high reward.
North African Sojourn
Chasing Atlantic swells From Australia
The pastel hues pre sunrise over a stack swell lines makes an inviting scene.
Beyond the studio and gallery walls, my latest adventures have been all about chasing incredible swells around the world.
A solid swell grinds off a shallow sand point.
One standout session took place in North Africa, where an epic Atlantic swell delivered perfect, reeling right-hand waves. With a mix of local and international talent in the water, 6–8 foot barrels rolled through like clockwork. Below, you’ll find a few shots from that unforgettable session.
The perfect peeling synchronicity provides maximum barrel time.
Having travelled to Morocco and other regions of North Africa on multiple occasions for more than three decades it’s still an incredible experience not just the waves , the people, culture and the crisp desert light.
Comfortably slotted.
Alfred: A Rare Cyclone Event on the Gold Coast
Cyclone Alfred churned the coast in to a frenzy.
Before I even finished documenting Nazaré, the surf forecast models were lighting up with predictions of a highly unusual weather event - this time, back home on the Gold Coast. A cyclone tracking unusually far south, potentially generating incredible waves, was becoming more of a reality by the hour.
A few long-haul flights, several airline meals and a handful of in-flight movies later, I was back in Australia - just in time for Alfred to become a reality.
Long luscious lines at Kirra courtesy of Alfred.
ONE OFF?
This was a rare setup. Typically, a cyclone needs consistently warm waters above 26.5°C to maintain intensity and for one to travel this far south is almost unheard of. But with ocean temperatures hovering above 27°C along the coast in late summer, the conditions were there.
We’re entering a new era - one where the Gold Coast could find itself in cyclone territory more often. Was this a one-off event, or a sign of things to come? Only time will tell.
A surfer immersed in a thick and meaningful relationship with Kirra.
THE SWELL BEFORE THE STORM
For three days, flawless waves lit up the points, delivering some of the best surf in recent memory. Then came the wild weather. While the system brought intense conditions, most would agree we dodged a bullet in terms of potential destruction.
Nature’s power is always humbling and Alfred was a reminder of just how fine the line is between beauty and chaos.
The Gold Coast is blessed with a child and adult minding centre during cyclone swells.
PREVIOUS PERFECT SWELLS
BEST OF THE BEST
Standing on top of Kirra hill I am patiently waiting for all the elements to align. I have beautiful morning light and an epic off season winter swell and I'm just waiting for that one set that hits the bank in perfect synchronicity. The waves groomed by a light offshore wind, I require the breaking set to be ruler edge as they grind across reef. Even for the most perfect breaks this moment of perfection is challenging to capture - finally my persistence is rewarded and Magic happens.
This formula is one I have repeated all over the globe for several decades now, in an effort to document the world's most perfect waves at their very best.
Golden Lineup | Wave #95
Long lines of swell glowing beneath the morning sky
Coolangatta, Australia
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