The Long Way Around

Lines appear from the horizon with a sense of inevitability, each one perfectly formed and following the next toward shore. The water runs deep blue-green, the lines clean and uninterrupted, the rhythm of the swell stretching further than the eye can comfortably follow. Surfers visible in the distance, board under arm, their full size reduced to a detail by the sweep of the coastline.

This is a wave defined as much by distance as by quality. The length of the ride, the effort of the return, the patience required to be in the right place when the right wave arrives. What appears effortless in the frame carries its own particular demands.

Some lineups ask more of you than others. Skeleton Bay asks everything.