Heart of the Wave

There are images that stay in the conversation long after they were made. This is one of them.

Below the surface, the ocean has its own language. Light moves differently down here, bending and shifting through the water in a way that has nothing to do with the world above. The wave passes overhead and for a brief moment everything is blue, illuminated and completely still in its own motion.

Pancho Sullivan is up there somewhere, riding across the surface of Cloudbreak. From here, the surface feels like another world entirely.